Show report: Versace A/W’12

Dark, gothic glamour was the mood at Versace on day three of Milan Fashion Week

Dark, gothic glamour was the mood at Versace on day three of Milan Fashion Week

For the first time since his death, Donatella paid homage to her brother’s final collection from 1997.

Re-working the Byzantine crucifixes that Gianni showed in 1997, 2012’s interpretations were bejeweled or embroidered.

The motif was a central key to the collection's moody theme - oversized on clingy bustier dresses, mini versions scattered on funnel neck coats, cut-out on a slick leather pencil skirt or hidden in swirling patterns on a surprisingly demure dress - whatever the piece, it came blessed with the symbol.

Donatella also reintroduced the brand’s ‘metal mesh’ concept - sculpting cocktail to red carpet style dresses. They added a shimmer to the model’s hard-edged sombre look with their Rooney Mara-esque haircuts and rock and roll heavy lidded eye make-up.

Acidic orange and yellow added zing, while the brand's name spelt out on short belted dresses also hinted at the past.

As Donatella took her bow in a skin-tight black leather studded dress, signature plantium blonde hair gleaming, it was clear that, although it was a caliginous collection, the future of the blingy fashion house looked bright.

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