The setting...
There was no need for Google maps trying to track down the show location with the Givenchy logo spelled out in huge white lettering above Paris's Palais de Justice. Referencing her love of film noir, Clare Waight Keller had the huge halls of justice divided up with cinema screen-esque velvet curtains whilst black wooden chairs lined the long looping runway. Low lighting and a thumping soundtrack interspersed with the steady thump of steam engine trains upped the cinematic feel.
The moodboard...
Citing the 1980's British horror film The Hunger as her starting point alongside the nightlife of Berlin in the early 1980s, Waight Keller's second collection for the house was a seductive gritty sort of glamour. Whilst, the house has a huge legacy with the big screen - Hubert de Givenchy famously dressed Audrey Hepburn in that little black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's, Waight Keller's take was a lot less demure. The opening looks consisted of models in huge oversized fake fur coats stomping down the runway. They walked fast, and close behind one-another, as if hurrying home, alone after a night out. The flashing runway lights and pulsing soundtrack upped their sense of urgency. These were glamazons, but with a dangerous edge.
The boots...
Cone heeled, with expandable zip sides, they sound odd but just like Waight-Keller's cowboy style boots did last season, are set to become a must-have. In black, white, tan and rust they toughened up dresses and coats. Elsewhere, there were strappy high-heeled sandals which upped the brutalist vibe.
The bags...
With a six year stint at Chloe, we have Waight Keller to to thank for a string of "it" bags including the Drew, Nile and Pixie. And now at Givenchy, it looks like she is continuing her accessories reign with the "Jaws," a devours everything tote plus the "Gem" an oversized soft clutch, that models hugged close to their bodies. The men's cylinder shaped bags were also one you'd buy for your boyfriend only to end up stealing it back to use for yourself.
The tailoring...
From oil slicked leather waistcoats to flared trousers and belted coats, Waight Keller's knack of clever tailoring was out in full force. All sharp shoulders and longer length hems plus the occasional flash of Chantilly lace, it's sexy and sophisticated and exactly what women want to wear.
The dresses...
Following her powerful couture debut for the house where she showed a string of dresses, that seemed destined for a post #MeToo awards season, with this collection it was clear when it comes to red carpet dressing Waight Keller is on a home run. Featuring pockets, tasseled hemlines, sequins and layers of metallic fabrics, this is what a modern movie star looks like in 2018.
