Bombay Bustle open their book of family recipes to create the city's most loved dishes

Who doesn't love anything home cooked? Bombay Bustle's art deco dining room is the perfect setting to enjoy Mumbai's culinary favourites

For some inexplicable reason I haven’t been to an Indian restaurant for about 18 months, there really isn’t a good reason, only sheer stupidity. This was a very welcome invitation from Bombay Bustle, I’ve missed fragrantly spiced dishes and equally tempered cocktails, how great the Indian twist on drinks, taken in a more decadent direction – Italicus (Italian liqueur made with bergamot), mango, Darljeeling and Prosecco (£9.95)

On approach to the glass fronted restaurant, you can see diners sitting in the recreated luxury colonial train carriage, designed by Fabled Studio, all beautifully art deco with a pretty pallet of mint green at the front and a rich brick red in the second half of the room. We were shown to our booth at the side of the restaurant near the bar, perfect vantage point for people, plate and cocktail watching.

Co-Founder Samyukta says ‘Mumbai is a city built on traditions, filled by an endless influx of dreamers, working professionals, and those seeking their fame and fortune; A true melting pot. In one moment you can be in old world Bombay and the turn of a street corner will thrust you into an urban amalgamation. In this complex, bustling metropolis, the Dabbawalas are a constant, bridging the distance between work and home, between different cultures and diverse regional cuisines, with their near-clockwork precision, and we hope to bring the same ethos to London’. Executive Chef Rohit Ghai adds ‘Bombay Bustle will capture the essence of Mumbai, our love of home comforts alongside our rapid pace of life, both existing side by side. The restaurant will be a place just as well suited to a leisurely dinner with friends as a quick lunch for one, always inspired by Mumbai’s diverse flavours, and home style cooking,’

After talking to Samyukta, feeling her passion we took to the small plates menu which is packed full of temptation, you could happily dine tapas style with just these dishes. We went for the Masala Akuri, Truffle Naan – Indian spiced scrambed eggs (£7), it’s all about getting the eggs right, here they were creamy and light, perfect with the naughty truffle bread, we also choose Samosa Papdi Chaat – Punjabi vegetable Samosa, wheat crisp, sev and mint chutney (£6) again airy not greasy, dipped into the chutney it gave a light crunch, flavours bursting into the yoghurt, last of our starters was the Amritsari Fish – beer battered fish, masala green peas and Gurkha chutney (£10), the batter so crispy I half longed for the salt and Sarons but in reality the spiced peas and chutney turned this simple British dish into a potential Mumbai street food classic.

A short pause to choose a bottle of wine, Arpeggio Settesoli, Italy (£19.50 for a bottle) and time to chat about the food, drinks and ladies bathrooms (lovely) we got into the main course. We choose one from the Tandoor menu – Murgh Malai Kali Mirch, black pepper, cheese, mace green cardamom (£12) and the other from the Biryanis & Pulao menu – Chicken Tikka Tawa Pulao, Suffolk chargrilled chicken, basmati rice and fresh coriander (£16). Portion sizes great for us maybe larger appetites might want a couple of side orders, the flavours full, seasoned well, not too much heat in the chilli but you could go for the Madras Chicken Curry if feeling a little spicy. To sum up Bombay Bustle is a gorgeous room, friendly knowledgeable service and a good mix of traditional and new dishes to try. It suits well heeled Mayfair, a wonderful lunchtime or dinner escape from the craziness of the West End.

Bombay Bustle 29 Maddox Street Mayfair W1S 2PA 020 7290 4470 hello@bombaybustle.com