Valentino Spring/Summer 2025: The reinvention and rebirth of historic house codes by Alessandro Michele

Valentino's Spring/Summer 2025 runway show was probably one of the most anticipated shows of Paris Fashion Week. Officially marking Alessandro Michele's catwalk debut as the brand's new creative director, fashion critics had already received a taster of what was to come when he designed his first Resort collection for the brand earlier this year, which as expected, featured maximalist silhouettes, animal prints, and arm candy.

Loyal fans of Valentino would know that the brand is no stranger to eclectic designs. Its time with Pierpaolo Piccioli at the helm saw plenty of historic moments, with the all-pink collection and the infamous Autumn/Winter 2022 show set in Rome's Spanish Steps, featuring 3D taffeta roses over dresses and plenty of surgically cut patterns and sequins. Look further back into the Valentino archives from the seventies and eighties and you'll find all the hallmarks of what Alessandro Michele does best - ruffles, jumbo corsages and printed tiered gowns - proving Alessandro Michele is exactly where he needs to be.

Back to the present day and rightfully, there is much to cover from this season's offerings. Starting with the setting which was meant to resemble an uninhabited place , where time had stopped, with dimmed lighting by lamps draped in sheets and a runway made of clear broken glass - referencing a work entitled 'Passi' by artist Alfredo Pirri - it was bound to be a memorable show from the minute guests walked in.

In true Michele fashion, the show gathered a stellar A-list crowd, including Harry Styles, Elton John, Jared Leto, Salma Hayek, and Florence Welch, to name a few. All of them have been loyal supporters of Michele since his days at Gucci.

In his show notes, Michele noted the importance of how beauty serves as a remedy for the anguish that comes from the undetermined nature of one's destiny. Following this was an exquisite array of lavish designs that spoke to Valentino and Michele's identities.

Some guests even noted what seemed to be a slight homage to the brand's 1980s collections. From polka dots to sheer fabrics, ribbed and red tights, layering, ruffles and plenty of embellishments. The collection seemed to conjure up elements from different eras to create a modern take on the brand's ready-to-wear offerings.

Focusing on the colour red as a significant hue in the brand's DNA, the term 'Valentino red' is often referred to as a seemingly poppy red shade that is synonymous to the brand. This season, Valentino red was seen on dresses, blazers, hats, and bows, which were used to embellish the clothing.

Accessories and Alessandro Michele are also two subjects that intertwine beautifully. Michele is not only well known for his designs but also his maximalist take on accessorising. Serving as a pre-show tease, the creative director took to his Instagram stories to share some major arm candy that was later spotted on models. Modern heirlooms in the form of vintage-inspired 80s jewellery, chunky charm bracelets layered on top of lace gloves, and bows pinned to clothing and model's hair. And, of course, more than a couple of diamonds adorning septum piercings.

Valentino's classic logo bags received an edgier iteration with fringed brown suede, XL studs, and two bags layered at a time. Michele also introduced what has already started to become a viral sensation on social media: a blue kitten hand bag.

A key note that is often disregarded at fashion shows is the soundtrack, which experts always pay attention to, as it often alludes to key messages, that help the audience understand the collection and the mood.

On this occasion, Michele couldn't have said it any louder. With the show soundtrack booming the word "joy," it's clear that Michele's tongue-in-cheek message advocates for the collective enjoyment of fashion, which is fully evident in his latest designs.