Valentino took us to the club bathroom for Autumn/Winter 2025
Alessandro Michele forced us to question "the masks that mass society imposes on us"

On Sunday, Alessandro Michele presented his second ready-to-wear collection for the house of Valentino at Paris Fashion Week. Entitled 'Le Méta Théâtre Des Intimités' guests were seated in front of a long line of toilet cubicles, in the house's signature red colour, complete with a sink and mirror station.
Chappell Roan, Alexa Chung, Jared Leto, Nara Smith, Parker Posey and Barry Keoghan were all in attendance.
Lana Del Rey's track 'Gods and Monsters' indicated the start of the show, as bare feet were illuminated underneath the cubicle doors. Bright lights went up, and the music switched to a thumping rave track, as models emerged from behind the doors.
The first look was a pink lace bodysuit, unbuttoned at the crotch, worn with a silk bralet over the top. This was the definition of high meets low fashion, where glamorous outfits become askew after a few drinks — the club toilets.
Michele's design codes were out in full force — fur-trimmed coats, layers of glittering necklaces and lace tights ran throughout the collection. Almost all models wore a wide flesh-coloured headband or black balaclava hood with oversized sunglasses, creating a post-surgery style aesthetic.
In the show notes, he wrote: "We might as well understand that, in the end, also the deepest intimacy of all is a theatre. Or rather a meta theatre in the theatre of existence: a backstage space-time that exhibits the features of a never-ending performance. A mysterious and multifaceted representation in which we choose to address the fundamental question: Who are we?"
Throughout the show, the cast of models walked in and out of the toilet doors and paused at the sinks to examine their reflection in the mirror. Fur and feather collars featured alongside floor-length sequin gowns (one of which had a cat's face across the chest), ruffled blouses and silk slip skirts.
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There was a strong 1980s influence from the model's heavy blush and glossy red lipstick to the asymmetric fabric, padded shoulder dresses. There were also several diamond-printed, Harlequin style dresses, echoing the opening look from the Spring 2025 couture show last month.
Wide peplum skirts and oversized bows sat on top of nude, skin-tight gowns. Sheer beaded dresses featured long trains which dragged behind their wearers — all worn with black balaclava hoods. Fluffy fur coats were also prominent, on both men and women, as has been seen throughout the entire Autumn/Winter 2025 season.
For the show's finale, all models lined up outside the toilet cubicles. The bare feet were once again illuminated beneath the doors behind them. The lights went down, and the models entered back from where they came, disappearing into the night (in reality it was the middle of the day, but that doesn't matter).
Print clashing, vintage references and a bold attitude — Michele is doing what he does best at Valentino.
Rebecca Jane Hill is a freelance fashion editor and stylist. She is the former fashion editor at Drapers, and has contributed to publications such as Elle, Refinery29, Stylist, Glamour, The Face, Dazed, Bricks, and Riposte. She has also worked with brands such as Dr Martens, Gucci and Calvin Klein across strategy, consultancy and creative direction.
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