London Fashion Week dazzled us with the Autumn/Winter '24 collections of emerging talent as well as the usual heavyweights. Here's everything you need to know.
Roksanda
Roksanda blurred the lines between art and fashion yet again with a collection that was inspired by a trip to Le Courbusier's wooden cabin in the South of France. His 'free-spirited' murals inspired tapestry-style pieces which included a dramatic cape and gown adorned with abstract patterns. Ropes were a recurring theme, draping ballgowns and cinching waists on coats and blazers. The designer's signature architectural silhouettes and bold colours were present throughout, putting coral and lime firmly on the top of our shopping list for Autumn/Winter '24. Note the Roskanda x FitFlop collaboration, which sees models walk down the runway in colourful leather clogs and flip flops.
Simone Rocha
The first thing you need to know is that yes, there were bows – puffy, outsized, taffeta ones upon the shoulders of coats, on the collar and cuffs of a cape, and in audacious ribbon clusters suspended from lobes. Rocha has been credited with starting the trend and didn't buck it for Autumn/Winter '24; in an era where some are questioning whether we have reached 'peak bow saturation', this felt deliciously rebellious.
The collection was titled 'The Wake' (a postlude to 'The Procession', Rocha's couture show for Jean Paul Gaultier) and riffed on the mourning dress of Queen Victoria. There were crystal-encrusted, faux-fur coats (and equally fuzzy Mary Janes), corseted jackets that nipped in the waist and kicked out at the hips, and capes in the designer's beloved tulle, as well as the aforementioned taffeta in deep navy and pistachio green and Queen V's signature black.
Rocha's girl is growing up – and she's taking her bows with her.
Burberry
‘The collection itself is inspired by British and Irish wool and fabric, centred around protection and warmth. Burberry trenches are designed with texture in mind. Coats are at the core, shoes and bags are functional. These pieces are made for the outdoors,’ said Daniel Lee in the show notes. And so, there were shearling-lined coats, revisited puffer jackes and duster coats, checkered wool skirts and oversised scarves and plenty of layering.
Molly Goddard
Molly Goddard proves yet again that the winter season can be far from boring. Looking at archival pieces for the collection, a visual identity emerged: volume and layering like you wouldn't believe. As the show notes explained, it was 'shapes on top of shapes; garments combining - pulling in, pushing out, smushing'.
There were tulle skirts (so synonymous with Molly), layered under slouchy jumpers pulled in at the neckline with a drawstring, drop waist dresses with bubble skirts, baggy tops over baggy skirts. Molly was inspired by 1960s Balenciaga and Dior gowns, but re-imagined them with freedom of movement for the modern wearer. Another trend of note: the romantic cowgirl, with her softened cowboy boots, slouchy trousers and western shirt with bubble hem.
Huishan Zhang
A dramatic collection for dramatic leading ladies. For Autumn/Winter '24, Huishan Zhang decides to explore and celebrate the conflicting personalities and sartorial personas of Ingrid Bergman and Anna Magnani, romantic rivals in a legendary cinematic feud - and perhaps imagine what they would wear today. There were Old Hollywood-esque sequin dresses and satin suits, as well as more modern pieces such as leather trench coats and pencil skirts with bejewelled mesh overlay. Highly wearable and covetable.
Chet Lo
Chet Lo is known for his knitted, durian fruit-inspired spikes. This season, he played with their proportions and placement, adding spine-like detailing to a hoodies, trousers and fishtail skirts. In previous seasons, the London-based, Asian-American designer has accessorised his ready-to-wear with bags and shoes from Singaporean accessory brand, Charles & Keith; last month, they collaborated on a capsule of spiky slingbacks and shoulder bags, which made its catwalk debut here.
Knitwear innovation has become the London-based, Asian-American designer's calling card, and this latest collection is no exception; as well as the prerequisite prickles, there were jumpers made from liquid-metal yarns and a hand-knitted paillette dress that jingled as it shimmered down the runway.
Mark Fast
Things got a little sci-fi at Mark Fast – in the best way possible. The knitwear master was inspired by future-focused '60s architect Joe Colombo to create a collection with 'extra-terrestrial edge.'
There was everything you'd need to navigate a futuristic metropolis by day and night; Barbarella boots were styled with cosy jumpers and knitted dresses with cobweb-like detailing. Crafted from weather-resistant materials, oversized coats were both luxe and practical. And there were some standout party dresses, too – namely a turquoise velvet gown that felt like just the sort of thing you'd want to wear to a space-age soiree.
Noon by Noor
If you want to dress like a fashion editor, Noon by Noor has crafted the perfect capsule wardrobe. Isabella Blow, Diana Vreeland and Lucinda Chambers were the muses for this latest collection, and the result was understated and practical yet utterly compelling. The label's '60s-tinged trench coats (and matching bucket hats) are perfect for London's unpredictable weather; we loved their cropped sleeves and A-line silhouettes.
Supriya Lele
Supriya Lele is making a name for herself when it comes to sensual, body-celebrating silhouettes. The designer's latest offering included bandeau tops and waist-skimming skirts, glimmering tops with a wet-inspired finish and gossamer-fine knitted leggings.
16Arlington
16Arlington drew inspiration from 'the house of horrors', reimagining popular characters from Frankenstein and Beetlejuice and exploring the link between human and monster.
The collection showcased an eerie array of models dressed in black gowns, long feathered coats, and contrasting silver tinsel dresses and skirts. Delicate organza tops and knitted dresses juxtaposed untamed fabrics and drop waistlines.
Harris Reed
For Autumn/Winter '24, Harris Reed explored all things Victoriana. With nineteenth-century shadow puppets and illustrations in mind, Reed created an exquisite line-up of dramatic silhouettes and fabrics. The structural elements of the collection included impressive volume, draping, velvet, and hand-beading. Taking place at the Tate Britain, the runway show was nothing short of moving art.
Tolu Coker
Some shows put you in an especially good mood, and this was certainly the case with Tolu Coker – and not least because of the live music that soundtracked the show. The British-Nigerian designer paid homage to the uniform of street vendors in Accra, Ghana. Think nipped-waist, '70s-inspired suits in bordeaux leather, chocolate linen, as well crisp shirt dresses – both calf-length and thigh-skimming, layered atop matching trousers and a fresh white shirt, respectively.
Natasha Zinko
Natasha Zinko's latest collection was all about looking upwards and forward, envisioning looks for a future era. There were deconstructed astronaut suits, curved spacesuit sleeves, and giant coats that spoke to the mob-wife aesthetic, all accessorised with 3D printed glasses. Barbarella is back, with a few distinctly modern tweaks.
As Zinko mentions in the show notes, "We may not be space-people yet, not yet, but we’re trying, trying hard, and, for the time being, we can certainly pretend."
Erdem
Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu looked to American-Greek soprano Maria Callas when designing his Autumn/Winter '24 collection, and as you can imagine, this translated into plenty of dramatic outfits. Standout looks included a rose-print coat with exaggerated collar, turquoise satin pyjamas and a floral bustier and matching skirt with red lines painted onto it.
David Koma
David Koma always amps up the drama and this season the designer opted to re-imagine the on and off duty looks of the late German neoexpressionist dance pioneer Pina Bausch and the contemporary Spanish action artist Candela Capitan. Materials you'd excpect to find on stage costumes, such as feathers and tulle, take on a modern and pracitcal quality: a feather shrug here, a tulle wraparound there.
Richard Quinn
You'd be forgiven for thinking it was an haute couture fashion week show you were seeing at Richard Quinn, so beautifully crafted and OTT the dresses were, including some spectactular wedding dressescomplete with full skirts, bows, sequins and veils.
JW Anderson
It was all about the ordinary made extraordinary at JW Anderson. Elevated housewife shoes, knitted dresses made of giant crochet patterns, a coat taking on grotesque proportions.
Eudon Choi
The collection's muted palette of sage, soil, aubergine and soft pink paid reference to a patinaed fresco on one of the walls of the ancient Roman city of Pompeii – a poignant comment on finding beauty in a crumbling world, perhaps.
Choi is a dab hand at excellent executed, subtly off-kilter tailoring, exemplified by a jacket with asymmetric buttons or a pair of slouchy suit trousers with trailing belts. For evening, there are bias-cut, velvet maxi dresses and ribboned slip dresses and skirts. Sensual restraint comes to mind.
Holzweiler
Annie's Ibiza
This season, Annie's Collection III draws inspiration from the careful balance of our ecosystem and the timeless elegance of historical craftsmanship. Flora was gracefully weaved into structured bodices with garments that resembled the Modern Era; one, made entirely of flowers, was completed on the day of the show.
The collection included handcrafted designs made from ethically sourced, recycled, vegan, and deadstock materials with an impressive array of diverse models that beautifully presented Annie Doble's creations.
Yuhan Wang
Every season Yuhan Wang draws inspiration from powerful women and this season she looked to legal figures who have played pivotal roles in shaping history, including Ruth Bader Ginsburg, Dame Rose Heilbron, Sandra Day O’Connor and Brenda Hale. The result? A collection that would bring a unanimous verdict in any courtroon: whimsical cloaks, robes with power shoulders, shirts with oversized collars...
Marques 'Almeida
London sure is happy to have Marques 'Almeida back on the fashion week schedule – that was clear by the front rowers' beaming grins alone. Portuguese founders Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida took the London-born brand to Porto during Covid but made a triumphant return this week. Modelled by friends and family of all generations (a tradition started in 2016), the collection felt inclusive, celebratory.
M'A played with volume in new ways, via drop-waist, peplum-hem dresses in lustrous brocades and heavy satin; one strapless, peach gown seems destined for the red carpet. Of course, there was denim – tied-dyed and indigo-rinse alike. A team favourite was the turn-up jeans, styled with a matching peplum top and a pair of feathery, frou-frou kitten heels.
Frolov
This season, Ivan Frolov decided to throw it back to the noughties with statement corsets, deep hues of red, and a leopard print dress or two. The Ukranian designer took inspiration form his childhood memories visiting Crimea- where he spent every summer until it was annexed in 2014.
Every element of the collection was intentional, from the burgundy shades borrowed from the colour of the leather sofas on the Kyiv-Sevastopol trains, to the gradient on the Frolov statement corsets which reflect the designer's admiration for the Crimean sunsets and unevenness of the tan on naked bodies.
Helen Kirkum
The Helen Kirkum presentation was a masterclass in the cyclical processes of un building and rebuilding. Set among a strew of pre-loved items, the backdrop was a mirror of the collection itself, which was assembled almost entirely from pre-existing materials and sourced objects.
The models moving fluidly through the show provided further proof that even the environments in which we exist can be beautifully renewed and refreshed by a change in the subject.
Ahluwalia
Susan Fang
Completedworks
Masha Popova
Di Petsa
Sinead Gorey
For Autumn Winter 2024, Sinead Gorey collaborated with Ed Hardy for a noughties-era throwback. A seamless blend of both brands signatures, the collection is a love letter to the British teenage experience.
Conner Ives
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