After a couple of fabulous stints in New York, London, and Milan- the time has come for the final week of AW24's fashion month. With established houses scheduled to show throughout the week, alongside some exciting newcomers: here's all the latest, straight off the catwalk.
Christian Dior
For this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri looked at the 1960s for inspiration, more specifically the birth of Miss Dior in 1967. A ready-to-wear collection that brought fashion to the masses. This is interpreted quite literally on many of the looks, with the 'Miss Dior' logo emblazoned on mini skirts (another 60s symbol) and trench coats. Figuratively, in the free-flowing silhouettes of the beaded flapper-style dresses and silk gowns.
As always Chiuri has collaborated with a female artists to create the set for the show. Models walked around a circular stage dotted with cane sculptures by Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni. The installation is part of her series “of bodies, armour and cages“, which explores the female body and its relationship to different spaces. Read our full review here.
Saint Laurent
For Saint Laurent's AW24 collection, Anthony Vaccarello presented a sultry array of designs amongst a line-up of A-listers like Kate Moss, Lily Collins, and Zoe Kravitz on the FROW.
The collection featured provocative, body-baring designs that set a strong precedent for style and elegance whilst juxtaposing purity with provocation. Amid strong naked dresses and blouses, the brand presented strong tailoring in the form of textured coats and voluminous blazers. Read our full review here.
Chanel
The palette for the AW24 collection took its cue from this: pastel shades of pink, mauve, orange, and pale blue mimicking the sky.
Carrying on with the nautical theme, there were sailor jumpers with wide collars, knitwear featuring flying seagulls, drop-waist dresses adorned with sailor bows and painted the colours of sunset, whimsical silk negligees echoing the waves.
The collection was full of wearable pieces, Virginie's take on what the well-heeled city-dwellers would wear to a seaside escape: think puffer jackets decorated with a camellia flower, shearling coats, relaxed knitted separates and plenty of denim (well plenty of denim for Chanel). Read our full review here.
Courrèges
A show that was deeply inspired by intimacy, Courrèges' AW24 show brought another level of Parisian sensual chic to PFW. With an interesting choice of strong prominent pockets on the centre-front with models having one hand tucked into the pocket, whilst a woman's heavy breathing beamed in the soundtrack to fully settle the sexy scenery.
The collection itself included a neutral palette of whites, blacks, tans, and a single red draped dress halfway through with a delicate yet imposing construction that perfectly showcased Nicolas Di Felice's attention to building a real wardrobe and aligning with the brand's community.
Casablanca
Titled 'Venus as a Boy' after the infamous Bjorn song, this collection explored the intersection of Greek mythology with French culture. Looking at the reimagination of Venus, the goddess of beauty, within a mysterious angle that fuses classical beauty with contemporary allure.
The collection itself involved statuesque draping with a modern edge of luxury athleisure that included tracksuits, tennis skirts, and even classic bowling bags. Strong tailored blazers paired with lycra tops and ombre hues of blue made a strong case for the serene conceptual bridge that resembled the Olympic theme.
Chloé
Seventies-inspired, chic, and very old Chloé was Chemena Kamali’s proposal for her first collection at the infamous brand. Grabbing onto the brand's identity and fluidity, Kamali presents a modern Chloé woman who embodies the free-flowing spirit that celebrates individuality.
The collection included flared denim, ruffled draping, suede fringing, and 70s accessories such as boho hair bands, XL logo belts, and clustered necklaces. All of which are not a want, but a need.
Isabel Marant
Boldly challenging the quiet luxury aesthetic, Isabel Marant's AW24 went the complete opposite direction and presented 'unquiet luxury'. With 80s-inspired blouson jackets, an abundance of leather, and leopard print in all of its iterations from tights, to dresses, and shearling jacket lining, the luxury brand has officially gone back to its origins. Additionally, this show was specifically nostalgic for the brand as it marked the return of stylist, Emmanuelle Alt, who is a long-time friend and collaborator at Isabel Marant. Alt returned as the main stylist and consultant for the brand, and her classic chic Parisian uniform was evident throughout the show.
Amongst hues of black, red, and brown, a touch of Marant's beginnings designing for herself and her friends was seen amongst the designs. Referring back to the brand's beginnings, Isabel Marant's AW24 garments have the designer's signature plastered all over, and we can't get enough.
Balmain
This season, Olivier Rousteing took Balmain on a journey to his native Bordeaux. Incorporating motifs from Pierre Balmain's gardens into the brand's couture collections, Balmain's AW24 carried a personal twist by choosing grapes. Which are, of course, his hometown's most famous product. Showcasing elevated trench coats in reference to the city's frequent rains in the form of dresses, trousers, and skirts and the brand's classic structural bodices and masterful tailoring.
Alexander McQueen
After more than 25 years at the brand, we bid farewell to Sarah Burton last season and welcomed a new era under Seán McGirr. The newly appointed creative director's debut collection at Alexander McQueen held strong references to Lee McQueen's previous collections. In particular, his 1995 The Birds collection.
This was evident form the first look which saw a model with a clingfilm dress wrapped around her body, similar its 1995 version. Additionally, the show referenced an established component of Lee McQueen's legacy: tailoring. With midi and maxi length coats that perfectly harmonised with the accompanying blazers and tied trousers.
Loewe
Loewe's AW24 collection held strong influences from American artist, Albert York, and his classic flower paintings. The paintings (which were physically at the venue) were brought to life in the form of dresses, trousers, and tops. Alongside strong flower motifs, JW Anderson introduced trapezoid sculptural dresses, tail coats that lay on the side, and ombre dégradé pieces. Another staple in the designer's repertoire was, of course, baggy trousers and denim jeans. Because no one does sculptural quite like JW Anderson.
Issey Miyake
Exploring the origin of dressing the human body with a piece of cloth, and creating a collection inspired by this act, Issey Miyake's AW24 show was one to witness. The art of dressing is a universal subject that connects us all, and one that is beautifully explored in this collection.
Playing with texture through drapery, layering, folding, twisting, and asymmetrical forms, the brand is eponymous for doing so and this season was no different. With colourful prints and the classic monochrome look, which has been truly doing its rounds this fashion month.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli's AW24 collection was a nostalgic celebration of the designer and Lee Radziwill's friendship. Radziwill was popularly known in the fashion industry as a creative consultant, public relations executive, and Jackie Kennedy Onassis' sister. The socialite has also served as a muse for many designers like Tory Burch and Marc Jacobs, even becoming the director of special events for Giorgio Armani. Valli's friendship with Radziwill inspired a proposal of captivating designs bursting with delicate hand-appliqués, florals, and classic 60s-inspired cuts that are elegant, timeless, and wistful.
Valentino
For many, an all-black collection could be seen as a sign of heaviness and masculinity. But not for Pierpaolo Piccioli. In his iteration, the all-black lineup expressed sophistication and softness. With elevated tailored suits and soft ruffle and bow embellishments to show an exemplary version of the femeninity that surrounds the Valentino brand.
Victoria Beckham
Not even a broken foot and a pair of crutches could stop Victoria Beckham from delivering this season. Inspired by a technical wardrobe that includes functional elongated pieces like the 'elevator trouser' to elongate the legs and 1930s asymmetric slip dresses. Simply chic and classic VB.
Hermès
Structured leatherwork, tailored jackets, and midi skirts were among some of Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski's proposal for Hermès' AW24 runway show. Varying amongst neutral hues of black forest green, ecru, oxblood, and scarlet.
Akris
Made for women, inspired by women. This season, the century-old Swiss brand displayed a collection of chic, functional pieces that took inspiration from Katalin Deér's photograms. An analog work of art that harmonises shadow and light to create the most incredible digital photo prints on fabrics.
Albert Kriemler wanted to showcase how multihyphenate articles of clothing can be with a coat as a gilet, a trench as a dress and skirt, or a skirt as a trouser. All while maintaining strong brand motifs such as the Akris trapezoid and introducing modern takes of the Akris apron.
Lacoste
This season, we witnessed Lacoste's return to the official PFW schedule under their new creative director, Pelagia Kolotouros. The Greek-American designer re-energised the brand in reference to Rene Lacoste's tennis reign in the early 1900s. Creating crisp lines and graphics, strong tailoring, and honouring the Lacoste legacy,
Cecilie Bahnsen
This season, it was back to black for the Danish designer. Commonly known for her whimsical, colourful silhouettes, this season, Cecilie Bahnsen introduced a colour palette that embraced a new energy—focusing on blacks, browns, and ghostly whites with flickers of silver and indigo. We witnessed a more mature and dare we say rebellious collection.
For materials, the designer opted for strong organza while using laser cutting techniques, transforming them into 3D textures full of movement. Several pieces also had large floral embroideries inspired by Kiki Smith's etching of flowers. Decadent ruffles for texture and edgy silhouettes were amongst the mix, with voluminous silhouettes that are quintessentially Cecilie Bahnsen.
Yohji Yamamoto
So if you need any further proof that black is the colour of AW24- look no further than Yohi Yamamoto's AW24 collection. Featuring mostly all-black looks with sleek pops of whites and reds. This collection had strong Picasso and Georges Braque influences that manifested in the shape of draped, cubist, and intricately tailored pieces.
Kiko Kostadinov
The Kiko Kostadinov woman by Laura and Deanna Fanning is one of dichotomies. The balance and tipping point of her strength and vulnerability is seductively revealed for Autumn/Winter 2024. Exploring soft fabrics and textures with an introduction of denim looks in collaboration with Levi's. For colours, the brand opted for primary and complimentary shades of mauves, khaki, and red.
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