Preen by Thornton-Bregazzi AW24: a triumphant return to LFW that speaks volumes (literally)

Today saw the return of Preen by Thornton-Bregazzi after three season off. Showing off schedule is always a bold move, with editors slammed with deadlines before the London Fashion Week madness begins.

So the husband and wife duo clearly thought they had an unmissable collection on their hands to guarantee attendance. And I’m pleased to say their autumn/winter 24 did not disappoint, far from it.

The show was set on Woods Quay on the Victoria Embankment, overlooking the river Thames on an uncharacteristically balmy (dare I say Spring-like?) day - a good omen all round.

This autumn/winter collection was inspired by Mary Shelley, writer of Frankenstein, and more specifically her controversial life, rather than her work. Another thread was finding beauty in imperfection.

The opening look, a ruffled puffer with a drop hem dress and a floral blanket draped over the model's arm in the guise of accessory, set the tone for the show.

There were a lot of the familiar details Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi are known for: romantic floral prints, frothy ruffles and lace, asymmetrical cuts and quilted outerwear. But there’s no denying they went out of their comfort zone with these looks.

Let’s talk about the unexpected details, namely bustles. So many bustles, which added the most wonderful volume to almost every piece. Bustles on the back of tailored trousers and lace pencil skirts, even on the back of quilted coats. Bows, a Preen special, were present in many of the looks, from the statement (oversized, on the front of a mini LBD), to the subtle (cinching a lace frock).

Onto the slightly more provocative, with cutout details that stopped demure and romantic pieces from veering into the saccarine. A peekaboo detail at the back of a 30s style floral tea dress, a crochet top slashed to reveal an underboob, cropped tops made of see-through lace. Likewise, casual pieces such as patchwork knits and bikers toughened up the ultra-feminine details that are so part of the label's DNA.

Clear PVC provided a modern contrast to the Victorian-esque ruffles and lace. One of my favourite looks consisted of a bejewelled tank top paired with a transluscent pencil skirt.

Bursts of feathers elevated basics such as slip dresses, bomber jackets and blazers. Layering kept looks fresh - notably a quilted jacket over a blazer. Accessories-wise, it was all about the square toe, knee high boots, and lace veils, adorned with strategically placed gems that made it seem like they were a whisper coming out of the model’s mouth, as well as deerhunter hats.

In other words, the perfect mix of the old Preen and the new Preen.

A triumphant return.