The best shows from New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025

New York Fashion Week concludes today, and what a week it’s been. With Calvin Klein making its return to the runway after a six-year hiatus, as well as budding new talent Christopher John Rogers who has been missing for the past two, there was a spirit of newness in the air.

Below, I’ll take you through the best shows and stand-out looks from the week.

Khaite

For AW25, Catherine Holstein (founder and creative director of Khaite) was inspired by the late, great filmmaker David Lynch. He passed away last month, and the yellow runway which models strutted down was an homage to his favourite film ‘The Wizard of Oz’. The brand’s signature use of leather ran throughout the collection, sculpting corset tops, boxy jackets and arm-pit length gloves. Naturally, black and slate grey featured heavily, but there were surprise pops of red as well as plenty of leopard and argyle patterns.

Sandy Liang

Cool-girl label Sandy Liang’s AW25 collection was filled with nostalgic references. Ribbon rosettes, furry mini-skirts and doll-size miniature garments featured throughout, in a variety of 90s colours. Metallic mini-skirts were styled with floral long-johns, for a sporty yet child-like aesthetic that was surprisingly wearable. Her signature bow-embellished handbags were worn with matching cross-body straps which, combined with fleeces and sequin skirts, created the impression of a woman who is on her way to a party but doesn’t want to compromise on practicality. Hard relate.

Calvin Klein

On Friday 7th February, Calvin Klein Collection made its return to the runway under the direction of newly appointed Veronica Leoni. The Italian designer’s creative director role was announced last May, and although she is relatively unknown, her CV includes the likes of

Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Céline and The Row. Given her past experience, and the six-year absence of the brand from the NYFW schedule, it’s safe to say the expectations were high. The 82-year-old designer himself was in attendance, alongside supermodels and former faces of the brand Kate Moss and Christy Turlington. In a meeting of old and new worlds, Kendall Jenner walked the runway in an ankle-length grey blazer coat, with round silver glasses and chocolate brown ballet flats.

Luar

Last night, Luar showcased its AW25 collection entitled ‘Pato’. Translating to ‘duck’ in Spanish, feathers were used throughout on headdresses, pinned to blazers or even as nail extensions. However, the word has a double meaning — in some parts of Latin America (Raul Lopez, the brand’s founder, descends from the Dominican Republic) it’s a homophobic slur. The show was a celebration of the LGBTQIA+ community in a time and a country where their rights are constantly under threat.

Anna Sui

Anna Sui is a veteran of New York Fashion Week — she launched her first collection in 1981. Her unique brand of eccentricity was out in full force for AW25. Tartans clashed with leopard print, zig-zag knits with florals, all completed with lashings of fur for a look that was vintage inspired yet totally chic. Purples and burgundys also featured heavily throughout the collection, along with plenty of beaded jewellery, providing a perfect anthesis to the minimalism so often associated with American fashion.

Collina Strada

Collina Strada’s shows are always one of the most inclusive on the NYFW schedule. In an era where we are seeing a major rollback in body diversity, the brand’s shows consistently showcase a range of ages, sizes and abilities. For AW25, a majority of the cast wore super-size, bug-eye sunglasses with voluminous ruffled dresses, sheer floral printed capes and embellished oversized hoodies. Graphic T-shirts boasted slogans such as “Girl dinner” and “Ladies night” highlighting that founder Hillary Taymour is hyper-aware of her Gen-Z audience, and always able to deliver on a viral moment they so desperately crave.

Coach

Coach was another brand tapping into youth culture for AW25. Soft plushie toys dangled from bags and were attached to shoes, proving that the craze for charms and customisation won’t be slowing down for the foreseeable future. Models wore ultra-wide baggy trousers, with tightly fitted jackets and T-shirts, displaying midriffs and long trailing belts. Coloured square-frame glasses and sunglasses gave the overall aesthetic a 90s vibe, accentuated by sheer dresses being styled over frayed, light-wash jeans.

Christopher John Rogers

Closing out the first day of NYFW on Friday 6th February, Christopher John Rogers’ show was a masterclass in colour-play. Canary yellow collided with burgundy, rust and pink, before adding splashes of olive green and turquoise. Stripes, asymmetric buttons and chunky fringing all featured throughout the collection, creating a sort of maximalist holiday-ready wardrobe. The designer has achieved a lot in his mere 30-years, including winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Prize in 2019, and his return to the NYFW schedule after a two-year hiatus was a welcome breath of fresh air.