Prada's Spring/Summer 2025 show championed individuality in the face of digital homogeny. It made sense then that Miu Miu – once the house's little sister, now a grown-up sibling with just as much power – riffed similarly.
On guests' seats were newspapers bearing QR codes that linked to various cultural criticism essays. One, entitled 'The Dawn of Endcore' by Shumon Basar, explores the loss of self in the age of social media. 'I genuinely don’t know where my doomscrolling ends and where I begin,' Basar writes.
As at Prada, disparate elements were combined to compelling effect – styled by resident cool-girl (and arbiter of trends) Lotta Volkova. Sexy, cut-out bodysuits were juxtaposed by good-girl tailoring. Belts were doubled – in some cases, tripled – up and layered atop shirt dresses. '70s-esque suede skirts were partnered with shrunken, '80s-style moto jackets in glossy brights.
There were parts that felt self-referential and even nostalgic. Miuccia reached into the archives and recreated a '60s-inspired, Spring/Summer 2005 print, turning it into an eye-catching trench coat. The designer has a thing for cool legwear – this season it was footless socks, styled with knife-point, slingback stilettos.
Doom-scrolling may be the enemy of creativity, but the show offered up a whole host of Instagrammable moments, not least of all the casting. Alexa Chung, Cara Delevingne, Hilary Swank, Willem Dafoe and Eliot Sumner all walked the catwalk, prompting more of a flurry of phone cameras than usual.
Aside from the excellent accessories (more on those shortly), there was at least one detail only visible to the more observant – and which, ironically, I only realised after seeing it on Instagram. Models were sporting intentionally chipped manicures and pedicures by nail artist (and influencer in her own right) Mei Kawajiri aka @nailsbymei. The Miu Miu girl has better things to be doing than worrying about the integrity of her nail polish, apparently.
Miu Miu's new-season bags are hot property right now, so why change things for Spring/Summer? House icons returned to the runway, including the belt-detail Aventure, the bowling-inspired Arcadie, the matelassé Wander and the Penny shoulder bag.
As for shoes, Miuccia debuted a new trainer (not dissimilar in silhouette to the viral, mismatched-lace style) and introduced a new shoe to covet – the aforementioned stilettos, detailed with piping and slingback straps secured in bow form.
