Max Mara AW24: a Colette-inspired chic and muted collection

After almost four decades at the helm of Max Mara, you'd think it would be hard for Creative Director Ian Griffiths to surprise us with his new creations, but that he did with his autumn/winter 24 collection.

Taking a major step back from the label's signature camel hue, he presented looks in a resolutely muted black, navy and grey colour palette (don't worry, there were still plenty of camel coats).

Firstly, it was inspired by Colette. As the show notes read, 'She was sophisticated, intelligent, and sexually liberated; inspired by the multi-talented writer, journalist, screenwriter, sometime beautician and audacious music hall performer, Max Mara’s consummate woman-in-control acquires a dash of Belle Époque elegance, with a hint of demi-mondaine glamour and a glimpse of the sensual woman within'.

It was a collection that embodied the quiet luxury movement that we're all trying to emulate at the moment, with designs that were very paired back but no less elegant. Think knitted maxi dresses, oversized suits, men's shirts and 90s-inspired square neck LBDs.

The tailoring was a little bit different this season as well. While there were plenty of fitted garments - some coats, blazers and skirts cinched in with a thin belt or bow, slinky dresses - there were also drop-waist pieces that echoed the silhouettes of the 1920s, notably a suede mini dress with front pockets and a funnel neck.

Griffiths knows what the modern woman wants, and that is style with functionality. Of that there was an abundance, from the heavy use of pockets to the hooded outerwear to the layering of knitwear to make you feel extra cosy and the wearable accessories.

Speaking of accessories, the crossbody purses (reminiscent of the best-selling Pasticcino bag) and the elevated doctors bags proved that the chic and the practical can indeed have a happy marriage.

The heeled loafers and men's brogues made an equally compelling argument for those of us who just can't do slinky heels anymore.

The ultra thin belts, elegantly draped on everything from thin knits to duster coats, have also made their way onto the top of our shopping list for next season.