Erdem upcycles for a regal collection

The SS24 show was inspired by royalty

Erdem
(Image credit: Getty Images)

Designer Erdem Moralioglu MBE took inspiration from royalty for his SS24 collection. Specifically, Deborah, the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire, and her relationship with Chatsworth House.

It is through her fierce, determined, warm and no-nonsense lens that the spring/summer came to life. Erdem was given access to the archive of Debo - as she was fondly known - to create the collection, which was not only inspired by her wardrobe, but her determination to keep the historic house of Chatsworth alive during a time when many others were crumbling.

But whilst Debo was known for her impeccable couture gowns and lavish parties during which she hosted presidents and artists, she was equally comfortable in a Barbour and wellies, tending to her chickens,

Both those sides of her personality are reflected in the SS24 collection. Jacquard coats and floral tea dresses are interspersed with wool cardigans and pleated kilt skirts. Romantic florals mix in with heritage checks. 

Even her love of Elvis is depicted in the collection in the form of a sequin slip dress adorned with Elvis-inspired green jewels. 

And as per Debo's making do and mending mentality, so has Erdem upcycled antique textiles from Chatsworth House into dresses and coat linings. In particular, a gown features remnants of old curtains, which have been hand embroidered by Cecily Lasnet, Debo's great-granddaughter, for the collection.

A collection worthy of the late Duchess. 

Penny Goldstone

Penny Goldstone is the Contributing Fashion Editor at Marie Claire UK. She writes about catwalk trends and the latest high street and Instagram sartorial must-haves. She also helms the Women Who Win franchise.

She has worked in fashion for over 10 years, contributing to publications such as Cosmopolitan, Red, Good Housekeeping, and Stylist.