Dior Spring/Summer 2025: a collection that plays on the duality of the modern woman

One for the monochrome lovers

Dior Spring/Summer 2025 models walk down the runway in the finale, wearing glittering swimsuits, white shirts and black trousers
(Image credit: Getty Images)

"Maria Grazia Chiuri’s objective for this Dior spring-summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection is to recapitulate the meaning of the garment, as if each model has been given the chance to speak and reveal the work preceding its own construction," read the Dior show notes.

As such, the Creative Director has delivered a collection that is both beautiful and functional, an ode to the history of the house, but with a modern twist for the modern woman.

Maria Grazia often honours iconic Dior pieces by re-imagining them - the Bar jacket for example - and for the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, she turned the spotlight on the Amazone dress.

First created for the Autumn/Winter 1951-52 collection, it beautifully highlighted the female form, nipping in at the waist and flaring in a full skirt. Chiuri deconstructed and modernised it for the collection, but still retaining its rich DNA.

"Choreographing archives implies forming links between several elements, before revisiting and subsequently reviving them in an unprecedented way," read the notes.

The rest of the collection plays on the duality of today's wearer. White shirts are paired with black skirts and trousers, formal blazers are deconstructed to add an informal feel, metallic fringed playsuits are paired with lace up silver knee-high trainers.

Red bomber jackets paired with combat trousers serve as a counterpoint to the more romantic tulle gowns and metallic fringed skirts.

Throughout, a dominant colour palette of white and black is interspersed with the odd pop of colour (the aforementioned leather jacket), and muted shades of beige and blush.

It is through the details that you can truly see the beauty of the savoir faire behind the garments. In this collection, it's a shiny fringe here, an embroidered butterfly there, an elongated Miss Dior logo...

Maria Grazia Chiuri doesn't just celebrate women through her collections, she lifts up female artists by inviting them to collaborate on her shows. This season, asked SAGG Napoli, an artist who uses archery in her work, to perform in the catwalk space, a timely collaboration given the recent Olympic and Paralympic Games hosted in the capital.

“May the building of a strong mind and a strong body be the greatest work I have ever made” is one of the emblematic phrases appearing on the set, one that is resonated throughout the powerful collection.

Penny Goldstone

Penny Goldstone is the Contributing Fashion Editor at Marie Claire UK. She writes about catwalk trends and the latest high street and Instagram sartorial must-haves. She also helms the Women Who Win franchise.

She has worked in fashion for over 10 years, contributing to publications such as Cosmopolitan, Red, Good Housekeeping, and Stylist.