'Chloé is not a passing moment; it is an eternal state of mind guided by instinct and optimism,' said Chemena Kamali, in the show notes for Spring/Summer 2025 – her sophomore collection for the French fashion house. Last season, we were effusive about Kamali's new vision for Chloé, and this latest offering proves the Creative Director isn't a one-hit wonder. In other words, I loved it.
The Chloé girl is on holiday somewhere far-flung, luxuriating in sun-faded fabrics and colours – apricot, shell white, blush and sand, all shades that remind us of the much-reminisced 'old Chloé'.
She has a chic new jacket; inspired by the house's signature flowy blouse, it has '80s puff sleeves, a high neck, and fine gathering, and comes in peach, beige, cobalt and cornflower blue. She throws it on with vintage-influenced lingerie – see the Edwardian-esque camisole and sheer skirt, the '60s-tinged babydoll, the see-through slips. There were bloomers, too – billowing ones, in black chiffon. Chemena brought the precious and pared-back together, effortlessly.
Diaphanous dresses and palazzo pants came densely printed with roses and peonies, lifted from a 1977 painting and reworked for 2025. Kamali also understands the beauty of a great basic – see her (perfect) ribbed cotton henley, elevated by lace edging.
As for the accessories, the sell-out Chloé belt featured again, along with other treasures that could have been collected from a fantasy sea shore (and souvenir shop). Think broken shells, sea-washed stones, summer charms and chains. Bags were strung with golden conch shells and slung over-shoulder. There were jelly shoes – but really, really chic versions – both flat and platformed, with sleek, pale-pink straps.
'I wanted to capture that longing for summer and the way summer makes you feel,' said Kamali. 'Taking the essence of Chloé’s roots as a starting point, building new foundations and capturing that fantasy moment of the summer months when you reconnect with yourself.'
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