If you’re at all interested in skincare, I’d venture you have at least some awareness of the benefits of retinoids. Nearly every skincare expert I speak to recommends using one of the best retinol serums as part of a hardworking skincare routine. But as a skincare category, this encompasses several different types of vitamin A product which are getting more attention in light of the new EU retinol regulation.
The retinoid-related glossary
Vitamin A: The umbrella term that includes all retinoids.
Retinoids: The term for all compounds that are derivatives of vitamin A.
Retinoic acid: The form of vitamin A that your skin actually uses. Think of this as the final destination on a skincare product’s journey after being applied to your skin.
Retinisation: Any dryness and sensitivity your skin experiences when adjusting to the introduction of a retinoid to your skincare routine.
Retinol is famous for its ability to target visible signs of ageing, such as fine lines and wrinkles, and help acne-prone skin. Beyond retinol serums, other derivatives used in skincare include retinaldehyde (retinal) and esters like retinyl palmitate. But even if you understand the benefits of using a retinoid, you may not be as confident in choosing the type that will be most suited to and effective for your skin – which is why I asked two experts to break down the key retinoids used in skincare and, crucially, how they differ.
Without getting too scientific, I’ve compiled this overview of what each one does to help you choose the right one for your skin. It’s by no means an exhaustive guide (this is an online article not a dossier, after all), but it should give you a good starting point for understanding the most widely-available retinoids.
Let’s get stuck in…
Why are conversion steps important aspect of retinoids?
Before we go into some of the key players on the retinoid scene, one thing that sets them apart is the number of "steps" they have to undergo once applied topically to your skin to convert into retinoic acid, which is the form it needs to be in to actually get results.
“A retinoid that requires fewer conversion steps to become retinoic acid generally provides faster and more potent results but can also cause more irritation,” explains Dr Derrick Phillips, consultant dermatologist at OneWelbeck. “This is where formulation is extremely important. However, retinoids that need more conversion steps are typically gentler on the skin, making them more suitable for those with sensitive skin despite potentially slower results.”
A guide to the key retinoids, AKA vitamin A products
1. Retinol esters
“Retinol esters are best for beginners and those with sensitive skin for example,” says Dr Phillips. “Retinyl palmitate is very gentle with minimal irritation. They convert slowly to retinoic acid, offering subtle improvements in skin texture and tone over time.”
Though the results of a retinyl ester won’t be as dramatic or quickly achieved as a more potent retinoid but, as Dr Phillips notes, the plus side is that they tend to better suit sensitive complexions.
Number of conversion steps: 3
2. Retinol
Though retinoids have long been used in skincare, this is arguably the form of vitamin A that really put them on the map, mass market speaking. “Retinol is suitable for intermediate users aiming to improve fine lines and overall skin texture, as it offers a balance between efficacy and tolerability,” says Dr Phillips. “It provides noticeable improvements in smoothness and reduction of fine lines, with mild to moderate potential for irritation."
Number of conversion steps: 2
3. Retinal
Retinal – short for retinaldehyde – is a growing presence in the skincare market. Going back to those all-important conversion steps, retinol first converts to retinal before retinoic acid. Therefore, retinal is one step along the chain, if you like. “Retinal is ideal for those seeking faster results than retinol as it converts more quickly to retinoic acid,” confirms Dr Phillips. “It offers improved skin texture and reduced pigmentation within a shorter period, but may cause more irritation than retinol.”
Daniel Isaacs, chief product officer at Medik8, notes that it is 11 times faster than standard retinol. “It enhances skin cell turnover and collagen synthesis and it is the only antibacterial form of vitamin A, which means it is great for blemish-prone skin,” he adds.
Number of conversion steps: 1
4. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Hydroxypinacolonate retinoate, also commonly known as granactive retinoid, works differently to the other retinoids we've covered so far. An ester of retinoic acid, it's thought to bind to the retinoic receptors in our skin without conversion. Isaacs notes that there is currently less data behind it than with other retinoids, but that is still a "promising molecule".
"[It] provides potent retinoid action without causing extensive irritation, making it suitable for people with sensitive skin," Dr Phillips adds. "You can expect visible improvements in fine lines and pigmentation with low irritation risk.”
Number of conversion steps: 0
5. Tretinoin
You won’t find a skincare product on a department store counter or high street shelf, because this is a prescription-only product. Tretinoin is very powerful because it is retinoic acid. “[It] is a prescription medication and should only be used under the supervision of your doctor or a dermatologist,” says Dr Phillips. “It is the most potent retinoid and is suitable for those with acne, or significant photoageing.”
Because it’s so potent, there is a high likelihood of sensitivity and peeling, particularly when you first start using it. “It delivers a reduction in pimples, and marked improvements in wrinkles and skin texture within 12 weeks, however, there is a high potential for irritation and it should be gradually introduced to the skincare routine,” Dr Phillips confirms.
Number of conversion steps: 0 (already retinoic acid)
Will a stronger retinoid get me better results?
It’s important to remember that retinoid use requires starting slowly and building up to higher concentrations—don’t be tempted to start with the highest concentration product from a particular range if you are very new to vitamin A use. “While higher concentrations, such as those found in prescription-strength tretinoin, can accelerate improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, and acne, they also increase the risk of irritation, redness, and peeling, which can compromise skin health and deter consistent use,” Isaacs notes.
How well the skin tolerates any retinoid varies massively depending on your unique skin type, another reason why it’s crucial to introduce a new one gradually. “The key to getting the best result from your retinoid cream is consistency,” Dr Phillips stresses. “Using a higher concentration retinoid does not always guarantee a ‘better’ result, as it may affect your ability to tolerate the product due to redness, irritation and peeling, which in turn may stop you using the product altogether.”
In short, the right product for you is the one that you’ll be able to stick to using. “The ability to tolerate retinoids varies among individuals and starting with a low concentration before gradually building up will avoid irritation as your skin acclimatises to the product,” Dr Phillips continues. “The best results often come from consistent use of an appropriate concentration that balances efficacy with minimal side effects.”
In other words, slow and steady wins the race.
