Antioxidants, or more specifically antioxidant serums: we hear about them all the time in skincare, and yet they've become synonymous with vitamin C and vitamin C alone. Now, don't get me wrong – I'm a huge vit C girly, and recommend the ingredient to whoever I'm speaking to. But there's plenty more out there to get excited about when talking all things antioxidants, so I wanted to share my favourites, which are also dermatologist-approved.
Before we get onto specific recommendations, let's start with a refresher on what antioxidants are and what they do...
What are antioxidants?
"An antioxidant is a substance that helps protect against the effects of free radicals, highly reactive molecules that damage cells, DNA, and proteins in the body," explains Dr Sonia Khorana, cosmetic doctor and dermatology expert.
Because of their ability to do this, the list of benefits are seemingly limitless...
How do antioxidants work in skincare?
"Antioxidants neutralise skin damaging free radicals caused by environmental aggressors such as UV rays and pollution," says Dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite. She adds: "Antioxidants also help combat skin degradation that occurs with ageing and help brighten the skin and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles."
In simple terms, the benefits include the following, which Dr Sonia lays out. They:
- can help to prevent and repair the harmful effects of pollution/environmental aggressors.
- slow down the deterioration process in the skin/collagen breakdown as we age so they can soften the appearance of wrinkles.
- help improve a dull, uneven skin tone to promote healthier-looking skin.
- help to calm and soothe the skin.
In short, an antioxidant formula is a must for brightening, protecting the skin from pollution and slowing down the ageing process.
When should you apply an antioxidant serum?
Most derms will recommend you apply your antioxidant formula in the morning, as this means skin is best protected from environmental aggressors it may face during the day. "Serum form is ideal – it should be applied in the morning after cleansing – make sure you apply sunscreen after," confirms Dr Sonia.
"It’s also a good idea to look for a product that contains more than one antioxidant," she adds, as together, these ingredients really do work best.
Speaking of...
Antioxidants you need to know about
We know just how beneficial an antioxidant formula can be in your morning routine, now let's get to grips with which ingredients actually count as antioxidants in the first place, and what they all do.
Vitamin C
I'd be remiss not to mention our good friend vitamin C. Yes – I know I promised everything but this ingredient, but it really is a standout in skincare. Both Dr Sonia and Dr Alexis mention vitamin C as their ultimate antioxidant pick, making it a must-mention.
"Vitamin C is my favourite: it may be listed as L-ascorbic acid (purest and most potent form), vitamin C ester, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or lipophilic vitamin C," explains Dr Sonia.
Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant known for its powerful brightening effects and ability to protect skin from pollution. My two favourite formulas are Skinceuticals' Phloretin CF and Emma Lewisham's Skin Reset Serum. I've been using the former for over four years and can't live without it (it's literally changed my skin), whereas Emma Lewisham's serum is a newer introduction to my routine – but one I love no less.
1. SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF
2. Emma Lewisham Skin Reset Serum
Vitamin E
Vitamin E (which "can appear as tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate," says Dr Sonia), is effective at protecting the skin from harmful free radicals, making it a worthy antioxidant. However, it's also known for its moisturising properties, meaning it helps the skin to stay nourished, too.
When it comes to vitamin E serums I've enjoyed using, I tend to prefer the frills-free choices that you can pick up on the high street. Simple's combined serum harnesses the power of vitamins E, C and F, making it a force to be reckoned with for free radicals. I've also become a fan of The Body Shop's formula, which feels really lovely and nourishing on the skin.
3. The Body Shop Vitamin E Bi-Phase Serum
4. Simple Booster Serum 10% Vitamin C+E+F
Niacinamide
Niacinamide has quickly become a must-have ingredient in skincare over the past few years. A type of vitamin B3 (a water-soluble vitamin), it's known for helping skin to maintain moisture, making it a key ingredient for damaged skin barriers. It's also incredibly calming on skin and can help to balance oil production, meaning it's effective for a range of skin types. Oh, and it's an antioxidant, naturally.
"Niacinamide – which can be listed as Vitamin B3 - is not as strong as vitamin C, but is very well-tolerated and anti-inflammatory, so it’s great if you have sensitive skin or even rosacea or eczema," says Dr Sonia.
I've become a huge fan of Beauty Pie's Happy Face Serum-Cream, which also contains azelaic acid and targets spots effectively. You also can't go wrong with Paula's Choice Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum, which contains hyaluronic acid, vitamin B3 and Quercetin, another antioxidant.
5. Paula's Choice Anti-Ageing Ultra-Light Antioxidant Serum
6. Beauty Pie Happy Face 10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-Cream
Vitamin A (retinoids)
Yes - wonder-ingredient vitamin A has antioxidant properties. An effective anti-ager and skin restorer, retinol (a vitamin A derivative) is best known for slowing down the ageing process and helping to prevent fine lines and wrinkles. Due to its ability to increase cell turnover in the skin, it also aids in skin luminosity, acne treatment and prevention and skin texture. Used as part of your nighttime routine (because it can increase sun sensitivity), the ingredient helps in overall antioxidant protection, and when paired with the likes of vitamin C or niacinamide (as part of your AM regime), is pretty unbeatable.
Before going on prescription retinol, I was a big fan of La Roche-Posay's retinol serum, which I found to be the perfect beginner's vitamin A. When I had built up somewhat of a tolerance, I moved over to Medik8, which has a brilliant retinol range to choose from and work up through.
7. La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum
8. Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3
Polyphenols
A broad term for a type of antioxidants, Dr Sonia explains that, "there are thousands of types of polyphenols (such as resveratrol), which are found in fruits, vegetables, green or black tea (also called flavonoids) and other botanicals."
Resveratrol, as Dr Sonia mentions, is highly effective in working against environmental aggressors and brightening dull complexions. It can also combat redness and has skin-calming properties.
Other types of polyphenols are found in the likes of green tea, which is a potent antioxidant and one I've found to be most effective personally. Containing epigallocatechin-3 gallate (EGCG), green tea can help to defend skin from pollution and the like, as well as calming skin and soothing redness.
I really rate both One Thing and Skin Rocks' serums, which both contain green tea in some form.
9. One Thing Green Tea Serum
10. Skin Rocks The Antioxidant
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