'Botox in a bottle' topical solutions have appeared to boom in popularity recently. We're all seemingly desperate for a non-invasive way to boost skin longevity, but how much can a skincare product really do, even in our advanced, modern era? Well, you simply can't discuss the topic without looking into the skincare ingredient of the moment, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.
This booming peptide is behind many recent face serums that are (somewhat contentiously) being dubbed 'Botox in a bottle' thanks to their line-reducing promises. In recent months, we have seen products from the likes of Skinceuticals, The Ordinary and Marie Reynolds be praised for such results—and they all contain Acetyl Hezapeptide-8. But what is it, and can it ever really replace anti-wrinkle injections?
What exactly is Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 & how is it used in skincare?
As mentioned, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is key to the 'Botox in a bottle' narrative that's exploded in skincare of late. It is said to have similar 'muscle freezing' effects to anti-wrinkle injections, but without invasive injectable procedures or hefty price tags.
"Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is a synthetically derived peptide used in skincare to treat wrinkles," says Dr Sonia Khorana, cosmetic doctor and dermatology expert. It is currently "gaining attention for its potential to reduce the appearance of wrinkles" adds Cosmetic Physician Dr Emmaline Ashley.
Often referred to by its commercial name Argireline (which you will likely find on a product's ingredients' list), says Dr Sonia, the peptide "has been compared to Botox in its ability to relax facial muscles." She continues: "It promotes the skin’s natural production of type 1 collagen, the crucial protein which forms large, eosinophilic fibres to rebuild muscles, reducing fine lines and wrinkles."
According to Marie Reynolds, whose name-brand Peptide Complex Super Charger product features Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, "It can be used in many functions of skincare, from eye creams to serums and moisturisers."
What are the benefits of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8?
The main appeal of this peptide, as experts point out, is that it offers an off-the-shelf, topical alternative to injectables. "This peptide is particularly attractive because it offers a non-invasive option for those who want to target fine lines and wrinkles, but who may not be ready for or interested in Botox," notes Dr Emmaline. "Additionally, peptides like Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 are generally well-tolerated and safe for most skin types."
Its main benefits are therefore in its ability to combat signs of ageing, such as wrinkles and fine lines, but Dr Sonia also points out that it can be handy because it "restores the skin’s natural water barrier, and helps bind water to the skin, improving dry skin," and "also helps to improve skin elasticity."
Both Dr Emmaline and Dr Sonia agree there has been research done on a small scale that confirms Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 can aid in wrinkle reduction. In fact, one study suggested that the peptide can "reduce wrinkle depth by up to 30% when used for 30 consecutive days," according to Dr Sonia.
However, it's crucial to understand the limitations here. When it comes to topical products and injectable formulations, there is a distinct difference. "It’s important to note that applying a serum to the surface of the skin does not mean that the peptide will be able to travel into the neuromuscular junction," explains Dr Emmaline. Reynolds also reminds users of her product (and others featuring Acetyl Hexapeptide-8), that: "You will not get a dramatic 'quick fix."
It's famously on brand right now to say a serum has the power to provide 'Botox in a bottle'-style results, but really we must remember there is a difference between scientifically-backed research and clever marketing.
The best products with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Even though the results are not equal to that of Botox and certain marketing claims are no doubt dramatically inflated, that's not to say trying Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 is without merit. In fact, for anybody wanting to experiment with topical solutions before (or instead of) opting for injectables or more invasive procedures, there is absolutely no harm in investing in a product with the peptide first. The ingredient is generally well tolerated and can aid skin in other ways to improve its general condition, even if you do not achieve wrinkle reduction. And there's always the chance, with consistent use, you will actually see a difference.
The following products come highly recommended.
If you don't know where to start, pick up a simple moisturiser or targeted wrinkle product before investing big in a more expensive serum. Both Paula's Choice and Murad's are great options.
Skinceuticals P-Tiox is a favourite of my personal cosmetic doctor, Dr Wassim TakTouk, while Marie Reynolds' serum is a slightly more affordable option. Speaking about the product, Reynolds says it "not only contains Acetyl Hexapeptide -8 but also has the added benefits of tripeptide-5, which supports TEWL (transepidermal water loss), Matrixl 3000 to promote collagen and elastin production and Copper Tripeptide-1, which is a super antioxidant that also boosts collagen and elastin formation."
"If you want to try products with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, a good choice is The Ordinary Argireline Solution 10%—it’s an accessible option that focuses specifically on reducing expression lines," says Dr Emmaline, who also loves this Medik8 formulation, "which is a gorgeous blend of many incredible peptides including argireline."
