Scalp oils have been used in a number of cultures for centuries. It's an embedded part of many women's lives and beauty routines, especially in South East Asia. And now we're seeing a huge number of people on TikTok (where else?!) claiming that the best hair oil for growth is rosemary oil applied directly onto the scalp and that castor oil is the key to longer, thicker hair.
It's clear there is a market and an appetite for scalp oils (which are different from hair oils FYI), but what are the actual benefits of scalp oiling? Or the limitations? That's where we come in with the help of a top hairstylist and a hair transplant surgeon.
Scalps oils are a tricky subject because some people swear by them and others aren't so convinced. I've asked the experts to chime in with both the pros and the cons to deliver both sides, as it seems there is no straightforward answer here.
If you do love to oil your scalp and swear by its benefits then we've also got some of the best scalp oils out there to continue your routine. Just promise to read this before diving into the newness. Or, check out the best scalp treatments to solve other concerns.
Benefits of using a scalp oil
Scalp oils can provide a temporary moisture boost (not to be mistaken for hydration, oils cannot hydrate the hair). This can lead to hair appearing shinier, stronger and less damaged. That's not to say that's not helpful. Many of us want our hair to appear in better condition, making oils beneficial but understand that they're likely improving the appearance, rather than the health of the scalp itself is key.
It can be a great self-care moment. It's important to remember that not everything in hair absolutely has to be for health and nothing else. If you find that applying an oil to your scalp once in a while makes you feel better and you don't feel like it's causing build-up (make sure you shampoo properly to avoid this) then go forth and oil-up.
Some hair types benefit more from oiling than other (though, studies still need to be conducted to determine this for certain). "Afro hair types tend to be drier because the natural oils produced by the scalp have a harder time travelling down the hair shaft due to the curls and coils," says Samantha Cusick. In addition, oils can be used as a styling primer.
Fine, straighter hair has can benefit from more lightweight oils but need to be "used sparingly to avoid greasiness," says Cusick and avoid weighing the hair down.
Limitations of using a scalp oil
Sadly, there are limitations to hair oils. Dr Bessam Farjo, Hair Transplant Surgeon at Farjo Hair Institute notes that they can offer temporary condition benefits but "the notion that they're indispensable for hair health is often overstated." Since the scalp naturally produces its own oils, adding more unnecessarily can lead to excess grease and pore clogging, which he notes can "exacerbate scalp issues like dandruff, acne and psoriasis."
As much as we'd love to say they do, there is no proof that scalp oils help with hair growth. Dr Farjo notes that it primarily hinges on factors like genetics and overall health than using an oil. If you're concerned about hair loss, it's far better to speak to a professional to determine the root cause than try costly oils at home.
Cusick notes that regular oiling also requires proper removal, which can lead to over-shampooing and stripping the scalp of its natural oils.
It's also important to note that homemade scalp oils might do more harm to your scalp than those you can buy off the shelves. There are some fantastic oils out there that go through rigorous testing to ensure it won't cause damage to your scalp and hair. We strongly recommending opting for one of these as not only do they ensure safety, but they're also far more pleasant to use.
If you want the ritual of scalp oiling but feel like your scalp doesn't benefit from it, try a serum, which is water-based and can help promote a healthy scalp environment.
The best scalp oils
1. Flora and Curl Coconut Mint Scalp Refresh Pre-Shampoo Oil
If you suffer from an itchy scalp from time to time, this serum-oil from Flora and Curl can provide some welcomed relief. This is a pre-shampoo treatment and is incredibly lightweight so gets to work without overdoing it on the greasy roots from. As promised, it provides instant relief. Though, if you're having on-going itching and discomfort, please seek help from a professional.
I've found in the past that dropper bottles aren't all that user-friendly, but this has a big pipette making it easy to apply to the scalp and handle even with oily fingers. This gets a big plus from me.
Another thing to note is that if you're sensitive to natural ingredients like essential oils then please do a patch test first as this could have the opposite effect, causing irritation instead of soothing it.
2. Bread Beauty Supply Hair Oil Everyday Gloss
Bread Beauty Supply Hair Oil Everyday Gloss is a go-to for many and it's not hard to see why. It works as a great all-rounder, being excellent for a scalp slather pre-shampooing, a style extender between wash days and a high-shine treatment post-styling. With kakadu plum, safflower, castor, argan and sweet almond oil, it's a lightweight but jam-packed formula with many uses. It has a delish strawberry scent, too.
3. Inde Wild Moonlight Scalp Serum
This one straddles between oil and serum brilliantly and it's really lovely to use. I find that it soothes the scalp nicely and is a great serum to use in between wash days if you find you get quite a dry scalp as it doesn't need to be washed out right away. Just make sure you're shampooing gently but thoroughly to remove excess product. It's housed in a beautiful rounded bottle that looks great on any cabinet!
I personally don't think there is enough evidence for it to be called a targeted hair loss serum so if you're experience hair loss, please visit a professional for advice, but it's a lovely serum nevertheless.
4. Fable & Mane SahaScalp Amla Soothing Serum
Fabel & Mane's brand ethos is rooted in the co-founder's grandmother's tradition of therapeutic hair oiling. The brand's Hair Oil is a fantastic all-rounder and this serum is a wonderful soother for the scalp. The formula is packed full of amla, aloe, bakuchi, vitamin E and plenty of plant extracts to help angry scalps.
This one is definitely a pre-wash oil so don't pop this on and then go about your day as normal, otherwise you risk your roots being much greasier than normal, particularly if you have fine hair.
I will say the brand's before and after photos are a little questionable though, so manage your expectations when it comes to results and giving it time.
5. Augustinus Bader The Scalp Treatment
The ultimate scalp soother but this is definitely more of a serum than an oil so I kind of cheated here. It's a great option if you're looking to spend a little more money and want something to help support the scalp without looking oily or greasy in the slightest. The formula contains the brand's TFC8® patented technology, which helps support the skin and scalp, in addition to amino acids, minerals, extracts, niacinamide and classic scalp supporting ingredients like glycerin and panthenol. The dropper bottle makes it easy to target apply to the scalp and the lightweight texture means it's easy to massage into the scalp.