There is a frustrating myth about foundation which has circulated for years that even the very best foundation going will exacerbate acne. Consider the myth thoroughly debunked: there is no issue at all with wearing foundation on spotty skin (in fact the only time wearing any make-up on blemishes becomes a problem is if it isn't cleaned of properly come the end of the day).
I know this both because skin experts have told me that's the case, and because I have suffered from acne for years and years—so I've paid attention.
As I'm a make-up artist as well as a journalist, I've spent years covering both my and clients' break outs, so have learned a hell of a lot about the kind of foundation which is ideal on acne-prone skin.
Before I share a definitive list of the very best foundations for acneic skin (slightly different from the best foundations for oily skin, which is more about containing shine and less about adapting to the different challenges of acne), here are some top make-up artist's (and my) tips on making up skin with acne.
Andrew Gallimore's top foundation tips for acne-prone skin
- "Target the problem bits - you don't need to apply heavy blanket coverage everywhere to successfully cover acne."
- "Never use concealer before foundation, always after."
Daniel Sandler's top foundation tips for acne-prone skin
- "To get the best coverage on skin with acne, lightly pat and press base onto skin until you're happy with the amount of coverage."
- "Use a dry brush to apply—if you use something damp, you'll lift off base as you apply it."
- "Start using a small amount of base and then apply more if necessary to certain areas."
Jessica Kell's top foundation tips for acne-prone skin
- "Avoid shimmer at every cost. I know it can be tempting to want to bring illuminating products into your base, but all it will do is highlight any rough texture or uneven surfaces."
- "I like to use two foundations when dealing with an acne flare up, one full coverage and one medium coverage. It might seem a little much but using a blend between the two means you can tailor where your skin needs extra coverage and where you can use much less."
My top foundation tips for acne-prone skin
- "Give SPF or moisturiser a bit of time to soak in before applying foundation to reduce the difference between the textures."
- "Apply a very thin wash of base across the face, tapering it towards the edges, then go back and apply more over the more spotty areas."
The best foundations for acne-prone skin
Over the years, I have tried countless foundations—some are great for acne-prone skin, others not so much. In attempt to pull together the ultimate list of the best foundations for acne-prone skin, I set out on a journey of rigorous testing. For any foundation to make the list, it had to meet the below criteria:
- It had to be buildable, so that it can be amped up where needed (though all of the below offer different levels of coverage).
- It mustn't be too shiny or slippy, so it can be pressed onto spotty patches without sliding off.
- If possible, it should contain skin-loving ingredients to reduce redness and inflammation.
So without further delay, here's the very best foundations for acne-prone skin.
1. Shiseido Synchro Skin Self Refreshing Foundation
Best for staying put all day
I can't say enough good things about this foundation - but here are a few of them to explain why I like it so much, and have used it for going on two years now.
First, it slides on and looks like skin - but tidied up aka less greasy, less red, less textured. And then, remarkably, it stays like that until the very end of the day. Seriously: the very end. The picture above is it after 12 hours, without touch ups. Impressive, no?
Final bit of praise: the shade range is brilliant.
For
- Looks like healthy skin when on
- Doesn't slide around the face
- REALLY stays put
Against
- The glass bottle makes it hard to travel with
2. Givenchy Beauty Prisme Libre Skin-Caring Matte Foundation
Best for a properly matte - but not chalky - finish
Generally speaking, I'll apply foundation, then add a bit of powder where I need it to take down shine and to keep foundation in place. With this foundation, I didn't need to do that at all - it locks onto skin, then looks matte after a couple of seconds.
If that puts you off, don't let it - I'm not talking that dry, caked look, I mean sophisticated, grown up matte. Also it layers very well on spots, so if you don't have a concealer to hand, you can just let a tiny bit dry on the back of your hand, then tap tap tap it onto red areas to cover (added bonus of this method: no need to match the colour of your concealer and foundation).
For
- Is matte but not drying
- Smooths on really easily with fingers
- Can be layered on spots to cover
Against
- The glass bottle isn't ideal for transporting
3. Lisa Eldridge Seamless Skin Foundation
Best for that 'your skin but better' finish
What makes this one stand out is how good it is at covering while also remaining resolutely skin-like in finish. I use it whenever I want to look like I'm wearing zero skin make-up at all, but need to hide something (and by the way, I always get comments to the effect of 'your skin is so great' whenever I've got it on, even if it's covering a multitude of spots).
Also I know this really has nothing to do with the foundation itself, but the sculptural bottle is NICE and makes me feel quite decadent every time I reach for it.
For
- Provides anything from light to medium-more intense coverage
- Really mimics skin when on
- The shade range is brilliant
Against
- The glass bottle makes me nervous to travel with it
4. Trish McEvoy Even Skin Water Foundation
Best for sheer, sticks-around-all-day coverage
Everything you need to know about this one is in the name: it feels like water when applied (lightweight, cooling, not greasy at all), locks onto skin, and makes it look clearer and even.
I found this offered light to medium coverage, after which I concealed anything which needed concealing.
It's not cheap - but a little goes quite a long way, so it's last for ages.
For
- Very lightweight formula
- Stays put for a long time
- Contains skin brightening ingredients
- Looks like sheeny, healthy skin - but isn't greasy
Against
- Another glass bottle, making it hard to travel with
- It's pretty expensive
- It can't build to fuller coverage
- The shade range could include more colours
5. Vichy Dermablend Corrective Fluid Foundation
Best for full coverage
The incredible thing about Dermablend is its ability to cover virtually anything. Put a thin layer on, and you have medium coverage, add more, and it builds and builds until you have a very dense, but not heavy finish.
For
- Contains skin-soothing thermal water
- Can cover even the reddest of spots
- The formula is buildable
- It's on the more affordable side
- The colour range is extensive
Against
- It isn't as fluid to blend as some others, so you might need to use a brush
6. Guerlain Parure Gold Skin 24H No-Transfer High Perfection Foundation
Best All Rounder
I knew this was a keeper after my very first day of wearing it thanks to the gorgeous glowing, but not shiny, finish. Think soft matte skin with luminosity coming through thanks to mother-of-pearl. It wears well, too, and didn't let grease break through - in the above picture, I've been wearing it for 6 hours while dashing around Oxford Street feeling a bit flustered, and only the slightest sheen has emerged on my forehead. I also noticed that it made undulations from scars or spots on my face appear less pronounced, which is remarkable given that there's that healthy glow element to it.
On the cons side: it's not cheap, and the glass bottle isn't light, so I don't like packing it when I travel.
For
- It's matte, but luminous at once
- It contains skincare ingredients
- It makes bumpy skin look smoother
- There's a good shade range
Against
- The glass bottle makes it hard to travel with
- It's not cheap
7. Suqqu The Liquid Foundation
Best for glow that sticks around
If your thing is glow, but you also have spots, this is the one for you. It's skin smoothing, sets to a healthy but not greasy finish, and contains hydrolysed collagen and hyaluronic acid to actively keep the skin's surface hydrated while wearing. If that sounds like it might slide off spots or gather in crevices: no. It resolutely stays put. I was very impressed. Sorry about the price, though. In its defence, you hardly need any to cover your face, and it really is a beautiful finish.
For
- It finishes glowy - but not greasy
- It glides on with ease
- It looks precisely like hydrated skin when on
- Contains skincare ingredients
Against
- Another glass bottle, making it hard to transport
- The price tag: ouch
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